Anyone can get a membership to a climbing gym and become fairly competent at scaling the wall by putting in a few training sessions per week, but becoming a world-class climber calls for a very different program…
ADAM ONDRA’S TRAINING DAY
Adam Ondra is widely considered one of the best climbers in the world today and achieving that distinction wasn’t the product of happenstance. The Czech climber shared a typical training day, which involved intense sessions at not one climbing gym, but four.
A typical training day for Ondra in his hometown of Brno, Czech Republic looks something like this:
09:30 – 11:00 AM | Kotelna Boulder Club
Canvas board power training
11:30 – 01:00 PM | Hangar Climbing Gym
Technical and dynamic modern-style bouldering
01:30 – 04:00 PM | Hangar Climbing Gym
Lunch, rest, and office work
01:30 – 04:00 PM | Hangar Climbing Gym
Lunch, rest, and office work
04:30 – 05:30 PM | VUT Boulder Center
Physical bouldering
06:00 – 07:30 PM | Home Climbing Wall
Climbing to the point of exhaustion
PIONEERING CLIMBER
Ondra’s intense training has allowed him to pioneer routes so challenging they required difficulty ratings never before assigned.
Of late, Ondra has been participating in IFSC Climbing World Cup events in preparation for competition at the 2020 Olympic Games in Tokyo.
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